
Photo courtesy Flickr.com/meaganjean
Each of these solutions are based on the following basic process. Most behavior problems can be solved by following these three steps.
1. Dog misbehaves, so you take the Good Things away immediately the “Good Things” will vary depending on the situation. It might be attention from you, toys, or playtime.
2. Redirect the behavior by telling/showing the dog what to do instead, OR waiting until she does something good on her own.
3. The dog does what you ask, so you immediately give her the Good Things that she was after in the first place.
Jumping
Dogs jump because they want your attention, or they want what you are holding in your hands (toys, treats, etc). Teach the dog that she will get these Good Things only when she sits down with all four feet on the floor.
Step 1. Sparky jumps on you. Without saying anything, immediately turn away. If you were sitting/crouching on the floor, stand up and turn away. Be boring. Sparky may start nipping at you. As long as she is being “bad,” you keep being boring.
Step 2. Wait until Sparky stops jumping. This may take two seconds or it may take ten minutes. She may step back and stare at you, bark, turn away or get bored and run off. This is all good. At this point, all we are looking for is “four on the floor.”
Step 3. Redirect the behavior. Tell her to sit (If she’s run off, get her attention by calling and sounding excited first). As soon as she sits, say “yes!” Reward her with what she was after in the first place. Did she want your attention? praise, pet, or play with her. Did you have a toy/treat she wanted? Give it to her.
Step 4. If she starts jumping again, immediately start again with step 1. Be consistent with this process and I promise Sparky will eventually figure out that jumping = no fun, and sitting = lots of fun.
Biting
Puppies bite because it’s fun! Dogs play with each other by using their teeth. But puppies don’t realize that biting hurts; they have to be taught to use a “soft mouth.” Teach Sparky that if she bites too hard, playtime ends. Her mother and littermates started this teaching process, now it’s up to you to finish it. If an adult dog is mouthing too hard, it may be because they never learned this lesson, or they’ve “gotten away with it” enough times in the past that they think it is an acceptable thing to do. This process will work for adult dogs as well puppies.
Step 1. When Sparky bites too hard, make a loud noise, like “ouch!” or “ah ah!” and then walk away immediately. Keep your back turned. If you time it right, this sends Sparky a powerful message: If you bite me, you don’t get to play with me.
Step 2. Wait thirty seconds or so. If Sparky is really revved up, wait a couple of minutes.
Be boring.
Step 3 Return to Sparky and offer her some appropriate options for getting you to play with her. Have her touch your hand with her nose, sit, make eye contact or even gently mouth your hand. Or you can offer her a toy and praise her when she “attacks” it. If at any point she starts nipping again, go back to step 1.
As with jumping up, this process will take many repetitions. Just be patient and consistent.



Love this site, thanks for having it available. I have a concern related to biting. My puppy is 9 weeks old, and we’ve been consistant on doing the whole “Owww” thing, but she doesn’t care. It doesn’t matter how loud or annoyingly shrieky it is, she just keeps on going. Walking away only means she bites our pants and ankles. We do put her in the crate when she doesn’t get the point, but I was wondering..is there another strategy other than that OW to get her attention because she’s not responding to that. Thanks!
Hi Lili, I’m glad you like the site.
The “ow!” strategy is pretty much standard, but what’s even more important than saying “ow” is what you do after you say it.
Here’s something to try: Since your puppy has learned to ignore the word “ow,” pick a different trigger word, like “that’s it,” or “enough.”
Practice this in a puppy-proofed room – somewhere that you can leave your pup unsupervised without her getting into trouble.
Step one: Play with her, and the instant she bites too hard, say your trigger word, then leave the room, closing the door behind you. Leave the puppy alone for a couple minutes. This has to be consistent; no nagging, no “if you bite me one more time I’m leaving.” Puppy has to learn that every single time she bites too hard, you leave and playtime is over, period.
Step two: If you haven’t yet taught your pup any basic commands, like sit or down, you should work on that now. Because after you’ve put her in “time out,” you need
to show her some appropriate ways to play and get your attention. So: grab a dog toy and come back in the room. Tell her to sit. When she does, praise her and offer to play tug-of-war with the dog toy.
I won’t go into too much detail on this here, because I have a link I think you should check out. DogStarDaily.com offers a full-length book called After You Get Your Puppy.
This book covers all the puppy subjects, like housetraining, socialization, and all that good stuff. They’ve recently turned this book into an ebook, and it is completely free to download. There is a detailed section on puppy biting. Read the Bite Inhibition section, particularly pages 90-95. This should help you out.
Here’s the link: http://dogstardaily.com/training/dog-star-daily-declares-january-shelter-dog-prevention-month
-Katie
3lostdogs.com
(I’ll email this to you in case you don’t see it on the blog)
Thank you so much for the answer and the link. I have another question for you but I’ll see if it is in that book before I pester you again.