A guide to navigating the challenge and adventure of life with your dogs.
A guide to navigating the challenge and adventure of life with your dogs.
Puppies are super adorable, yes. But as you’ve probably figured out by now, they can also be super annoying.
Puppies play by jumping, biting, and tackling relentlessly. It’s normal, but it can be too much for your resident pets to handle. Your cats, chickens, or older dogs probably long for the days when they could go about their lives without being accosted by a puppy-sized tornado.
Here’s how to get your puppy to stop bothering your other pets so they can have some peace.
There are three parts to this plan:
1. Prevent the problem – physically prevent your puppy from bothering the other animals when you’re not available to train and supervise.
2. Wear the puppy out – a tired puppy is a less-annoying puppy.
3. Finally, train the puppy – teach him appropriate ways to behave around the other pets.
Physically prevent little Chomper from getting a chance to chomp on your other pets.
When you can’t directly supervise and train good play habits, he needs to be kept separate from them. Why? Because tackling and biting the cat/chicken/older dog is a ton of fun. It’s naturally reinforcing. The more the puppy does it, the more fun he has, the more he gets reinforced, the more likely he is to do it again next time.
Basically, the more you allow this habit to happen, the harder it will be to get it to stop.
This is where a lot of people go wrong. They let the pup have way too much freedom before he’s learned good habits. This causes all kinds of bad habits to develop.
Want Chomper to leave the cat alone? Don’t give him access to the cat.
Wear the puppy out and provide appropriate outlets for normal play behavior.
You know the adage, “a tired dog is a good dog?” A tired puppy is a beautiful creature. A tired puppy will spend less time terrorizing your poor old cocker spaniel.
Yeah, I know. This is easier said than done. How exactly does one successfully wear out a puppy, without passing out from exhaustion oneself?
The best way to tire your puppy is to make him think. You can play fetch all you want, but nothing tires a dog out faster than putting his brain to work. This is true of all dogs, but especially young puppies.
The thing is, if you want your pup to grow up to become the most well-mannered, stable adult he can be, he needs lots of socialization and training. So you should be putting his brain to work anyway.
Teach him some tricks and important obedience cues like sit or the recall.
Have Chomper forage for food or play indoor agility.
Take a puppy socialization class. Set up a play date with a puppy-owning friend. Chomper will get an outlet for his natural play behavior, exhaust himself, and get to practice communication with his own species, a skill that many pet dogs are sorely lacking.
Invite friends over to a puppy party.
Take Chomper on adventures: to the local pet store, to friends’ houses, on short hikes.
When you’re not doing anything with him, give him a puzzle toy or a hollow bone stuffed with soft dog food, peanut butter, or cream cheese.
You don’t have to do all this in one day, of course. But a couple hours a day of exploration, learning, and working for his food will work wonders. He’ll be less likely to take his boredom out on the cat.
Plus, he’ll grow up to be a mentally stable dog. I don’t know about you, but I do like my dogs to be mentally stable.
Teach the puppy how to behave around the other pets.
It took us more than 700 words to get to this point. That’s because the first two parts are important prerequisites. Work on them enough and this part will be much, much easier.
The point of this training is to teach Chomper that good behavior makes fun things happen, but attacking the other pet makes fun things end.
(There’s a video demo of this exercise in Puppy Survival School)
You will need:
Figure out exactly what you want your puppy to do instead of harassing Puff. You know exactly what you don’t want him to do, but that’s not enough. We’re going to be rewarding him for good behavior, so you need a clear idea of what that good behavior is. Good behavior includes:
Put Chomper on leash, and bring him and Puff into the same room. Get close enough that Chomper can see the cat, but not close enough to touch.
Let Chomper see the cat, then get his attention by saying his name or making funny noises. Watch for any of the good behaviors. If Chomper knows the sit cue, have him sit. When he does a good behavior, say “good dog!” and give him a treat. (If you use a marker word or clicker, mark-and-treat)
Then bring out the plush toy and offer Chomper a game of tug.
The lesson we’re trying to teach Chomper: Calm behavior around the cat means I get treats and I get to play!
After about 30 seconds of play, take the toy away, and repeat from step one.
Repeat this exercise about three times per session, then take a break. No session should ever last more than five minutes.
Increase the amount of time Chomper must show good behavior before getting to play. Look for three opportunities to reward good behavior. For example: tell him to sit, treat. He continues to sit, treat. He looks away from the cat and makes eye contact with you, treat. Then play.
Do at least three 5-minute sessions of this training before moving on to step five.
Make it harder. Bring the other pet closer. Repeat the same training as before, but this time, stand close enough that Chomper could reach the cat if he wanted to.
Since this is harder, you need to increase the reward: as long as Chomper is not going after the cat, offer a steady stream of treats, like one per second.
After five seconds, break out the plush toy for a game.
If Chomper goes after the cat at any time, that triggers a time-out. Take the puppy away, by the leash, stand in a corner and be “boring:” stand still, no interacting with the pup. Let him be bored for 20 seconds, then take him back and try again.
The message is: if I go after the cat, fun times end.
Do at least two sessions of this training per day for a few days. When you can get through a whole 5-minute session without the puppy going after your other pet, then you can start training off-leash.
Chomper will not stop going after Puff, and does not exhibit any of the “good behaviors.”
You’re probably working too close to Puff. Increase the distance enough that Chomper gets his brain back and can listen to you. This might mean working all the way across the room, putting a baby gate between you and the cat, or having an assistant hold Puff up out of reach.
As Chomper gets better at this training, gradually bring the animals closer to each other.
Also, make sure you’re using really good treats. Regular kibble is probably not going to cut it for this; you need something delicious like real meat.
Finally, make sure the game you’re offering as a reward is fun enough. You want Chomper to learn that playing this game with you is much more fun than harassing the cat, so make it AWESOME! Crouch down on the floor with him, gently shove him, make high-pitched noises, drag the toy away enticingly, run away from him – whatever it takes.
With the help of this plan, your puppy will outgrow the obnoxious-tornado stage. To recap:
Need more help than this? Check out Puppy Survival School, our comprehensive program that comes with eight self-paced online courses:
You’ll learn how to:
All of this is taught using video demos of real puppy training, so you can see exactly how it works in real life. Click here to learn more.